The Grassmarket lies in a hollow directly south of the castle, whose rock rears up above the rooftops. From the 15th century it was the city’s market for horses and cattle; for more than a century it was also the place of public execution. Today it is a broad, mostly traffic-free space of pub terraces, restaurants and small hotels.
Victoria Street, which climbs out of its north-east corner, was cut through the Old Town between 1829 and 1834 to give an easier route up to the Royal Mile. Its curve of arched, brightly painted shopfronts, with a pedestrian terrace running above them, has become the most photographed street in Edinburgh.
What to see and do: Grassmarket & Victoria Street
Walk Victoria Street and its terrace
Start at George IV Bridge and walk down. Independent shops sell cheese, whisky, tweed, books and jokes. Then take the steps up to Victoria Terrace for the view down over the curve. The street is widely said to have inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books; the author has not confirmed it, but the wizard-themed shops do not mind.
The view of the castle
The classic view is from the west end of the Grassmarket and, better still, from the Vennel — a flight of steps on the south side, beside a surviving stretch of the old town wall. Climb halfway and turn round.
Stories of the gallows
A circular memorial at the east end marks the site of the scaffold, where around a hundred Covenanters were hanged in the 17th century. Maggie Dickson’s pub recalls a woman hanged here in 1724 who woke up in her coffin on the way to burial; she was allowed to go free, and lived on for decades as “Half-Hangit Maggie”.
Historic pubs
The White Hart Inn claims to be one of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh, and counts Robert Burns among its past guests. The Last Drop takes its name from the gallows. In good weather every terrace is full by late afternoon.
Markets and Candlemaker Row
A small market of food and craft stalls sets up in the Grassmarket on Saturdays. From the east end, Candlemaker Row climbs to Greyfriars Kirkyard and the statue of Bobby in three minutes.
How to get to Grassmarket & Victoria Street
- From the Royal Mile, turn down George IV Bridge and take Victoria Street on the right — about five minutes from St Giles’.
- From the castle Esplanade, the Castle Wynd steps drop straight to the Grassmarket in a couple of minutes.
- From Princes Street, walk up Lothian Road and along King’s Stables Road beneath the castle rock, or take a bus to George IV Bridge.
Insider tips
- Photograph Victoria Street before 9 am, when the shops are shut but the street is empty and the light is soft.
- The Grassmarket is popular with stag and hen parties on Friday and Saturday nights. Light sleepers should ask hotels here for a room at the back.
- Most Harry Potter walking tours pass through Victoria Street and Greyfriars.
- The lower end of Victoria Street, the West Bow, has some of the best lunch spots in the Old Town; expect queues at weekends.
Best tours & tickets for Grassmarket & Victoria Street
These top-rated experiences pair well with a visit to Grassmarket & Victoria Street:
Walking tour from €21 Edinburgh: Harry Potter Magical Guided Walking Tour
Much of Harry Potter was written in Edinburgh, and this hugely popular tour visits the places said to have inspired it: the curve of Victoria Street, the gravestones of Greyfriars Kirkyard and the cafés where early chapters took shape. Light-hearted, family-friendly and very well reviewed.
- Victoria Street and Greyfriars Kirkyard
- The cafés and school linked to the books
- More than 13,000 reviews
Evening ghost tour from €31 Edinburgh: Haunted Underground Vaults and Graveyard Tour
Edinburgh’s classic evening out: a cloaked guide leads you through the closes of the Old Town, into a graveyard and down into the vaults, with stories of body-snatchers, witch trials and things unexplained. More than 7,000 reviews.
- Blair Street vaults after dark
- A historic Old Town graveyard
- Cloaked storyteller guide
Walking tour from €21 Edinburgh: Old Town History and Tales Walking Tour
Two hours on foot through the medieval Old Town with a local guide: the Royal Mile, hidden closes, the Grassmarket, Greyfriars and the stories of the people who lived here. An inexpensive, well-reviewed way to get your bearings on your first day.
- The Royal Mile, closes and courtyards
- Greyfriars and the Grassmarket
- Low price, high rating
Food tour from €113 Edinburgh: Walking Food Tour with 5 Tastings, Haggis & Scotch
A small-group walk between independent restaurants, delis and bars, tasting the dishes Scotland is known for and a few it should be. The guide weaves in the city’s history as you go. Pricey, but it replaces a meal and reviews are excellent.
- Haggis, Scottish cheese, seafood and whisky
- Small group with a local guide
- Enough food to count as a meal
