The Royal Mile is not one street but four, laid end to end down the ridge that runs east from the castle: Castlehill, the Lawnmarket, the High Street and the Canongate. Together they measure about one old Scots mile — a little longer than a modern one — and until the 18th century almost the whole of Edinburgh lived along them, stacked in tenements that were among the tallest buildings in Europe.
It is busy, and parts of it are thick with tartan shops, but look sideways. The closes and wynds that slip between the buildings lead to quiet courtyards, gardens and views, and the lower half, the Canongate, is far calmer than the top.
What to see and do: The Royal Mile & St Giles’
St Giles’ Cathedral
The High Kirk of Edinburgh, with its unmistakable crown spire of the late 1400s. John Knox preached here during the Reformation. Do not miss the Thistle Chapel, a small, richly carved chapel of 1911 for Scotland’s order of chivalry — look for the angel playing the bagpipes. Entry is free, with a donation suggested.
Explore the closes
Advocate’s Close frames a much-photographed view of the Scott Monument. Lady Stair’s Close holds the free Writers’ Museum, devoted to Burns, Scott and Stevenson. Further down, Dunbar’s Close hides a 17th-century-style garden and White Horse Close is a picturesque old coaching yard.
The small free museums
The Museum of Edinburgh and the People’s Story, facing each other on the Canongate, tell the story of the city and of its working people; the Museum of Childhood is on the High Street. All are free. Gladstone’s Land on the Lawnmarket, cared for by the National Trust for Scotland, is a restored merchant’s tenement with painted ceilings.
Street-level details
Outside St Giles’, a heart-shaped mosaic in the cobbles — the Heart of Midlothian — marks the site of the old tolbooth and prison. Nearby are the Mercat Cross, from which royal proclamations are still read, and statues of the philosopher David Hume and the economist Adam Smith, whose grave is in the Canongate Kirkyard.
Whisky, illusions and what lies beneath
At the top of the Mile are the Scotch Whisky Experience and Camera Obscura & World of Illusions, the city’s oldest visitor attraction. Halfway down is the entrance to the Real Mary King’s Close.
How to get to The Royal Mile & St Giles’
- Waverley station sits directly below the middle of the Mile: take the Market Street exit and climb Cockburn Street or the Fleshmarket Close steps to the High Street in about five minutes.
- Walk it downhill. Start at the castle and finish at the Palace of Holyroodhouse; without stops it takes 20–25 minutes, with stops half a day.
- Lothian buses run along North Bridge and South Bridge, which cross the Mile at the Tron Kirk, and along the Canongate to Holyrood.
Insider tips
- Go early or after 6 pm for photographs: by late morning the upper Mile is crowded, especially in August.
- During the Fringe the High Street becomes an open-air stage of street performers and flyering — wonderful, but slow to walk through.
- A guided Old Town walk on your first morning makes sense of the layout and points out closes you would never find alone.
- The cobbles are uneven and slippery when wet. Wear flat shoes with grip.
Best tours & tickets for The Royal Mile & St Giles’
These top-rated experiences pair well with a visit to The Royal Mile & St Giles’:
Walking tour from €21 Edinburgh: Old Town History and Tales Walking Tour
Two hours on foot through the medieval Old Town with a local guide: the Royal Mile, hidden closes, the Grassmarket, Greyfriars and the stories of the people who lived here. An inexpensive, well-reviewed way to get your bearings on your first day.
- The Royal Mile, closes and courtyards
- Greyfriars and the Grassmarket
- Low price, high rating
Guided tour from €34 Edinburgh: Real Mary King’s Close Guided Tour
An hour beneath the City Chambers in the preserved streets and houses of the 1600s, led by a guide in character. It is social history — plague, trade and daily life — rather than a fright show, and suitable for most children over five.
- Buried 17th-century streets under the Royal Mile
- Guide in historical character
- Timed entry — slots sell out
Tour + tasting from €29 Edinburgh: The Scotch Whisky Experience Tour and Tasting
Beside the castle gate, this long-established attraction explains how Scotch whisky is made and how the regions differ, shows you a vault holding thousands of bottles, and finishes with a guided tasting. Several tour lengths are offered.
- How Scotch is made, region by region
- One of the world’s largest whisky collections
- Guided tasting included
Food tour from €113 Edinburgh: Walking Food Tour with 5 Tastings, Haggis & Scotch
A small-group walk between independent restaurants, delis and bars, tasting the dishes Scotland is known for and a few it should be. The guide weaves in the city’s history as you go. Pricey, but it replaces a meal and reviews are excellent.
- Haggis, Scottish cheese, seafood and whisky
- Small group with a local guide
- Enough food to count as a meal
