Leith was a separate town until 1920 and still behaves like one. For centuries it was Scotland’s main port; Mary, Queen of Scots landed here from France in 1561. After a long post-industrial slump the old warehouses along the Water of Leith filled with restaurants, bars and studios, and Leith is now regularly named among the best neighbourhoods in Britain for eating out.
Its star attraction is the Royal Yacht Britannia. Launched on the Clyde in 1953, she carried the Queen and the royal family more than a million nautical miles on state visits and holidays before being retired in 1997. She is now permanently moored at Ocean Terminal.
What to see and do: Leith & the Royal Yacht Britannia
Tour the Royal Yacht Britannia
A self-guided audio tour, available in many languages, takes you over five decks: the bridge, the surprisingly modest royal bedrooms, the State Dining Room, the drawing room with its baby grand piano, and — in complete contrast — the crew’s quarters and the gleaming engine room. Allow about two hours. Tickets can be booked ahead.
Tea on the Royal Deck
The Royal Deck Tea Room, where the family once played deck games, serves scones, cakes and sandwiches with a view over the harbour. It is for ticket holders only.
The Shore
The cobbled quayside where the river meets the docks is lined with seafood restaurants and old pubs. Leith has several Michelin-starred restaurants within a few minutes’ walk of one another; book well ahead for those, or simply eat fish and chips by the water.
Leith Walk and the new Leith
The long street that connects Leith to the city centre is a lively mix of cafés, bars, international food shops and vintage stores. Around the docks you will also find gin and whisky distilleries offering tours and tastings.
Newhaven harbour
The tram line ends at Newhaven, a former fishing village with a small harbour, a lighthouse and good sunsets over the Forth.
How to get to Leith & the Royal Yacht Britannia
- The tram runs from Princes Street and St Andrew Square down Leith Walk to The Shore, Ocean Terminal (for Britannia) and Newhaven; allow around 20–25 minutes from the centre.
- Lothian buses also run frequently from Princes Street to Ocean Terminal, and one of the hop-on hop-off routes is designed around Britannia.
- Walking from the city centre down Leith Walk to The Shore takes 35–40 minutes; a prettier route follows the Water of Leith Walkway from Stockbridge.
Insider tips
- Britannia’s entrance is inside the Ocean Terminal shopping centre, on the second floor.
- Go early or mid-afternoon; late morning is busiest, especially when a cruise ship is in.
- The ship is very accessible, with lifts and ramps to almost all areas.
- A combined ticket covering Britannia, the castle and Holyroodhouse with hop-on hop-off buses is sold in the city — worth pricing if you plan all three.
Best tours & tickets for Leith & the Royal Yacht Britannia
These top-rated experiences pair well with a visit to Leith & the Royal Yacht Britannia:
Entry ticket from €29 Edinburgh: The Royal Yacht Britannia Ticket
The late Queen’s floating palace for over forty years, now moored in Leith and consistently one of the best-reviewed attractions in Scotland. The audio tour covers the state rooms, the royal apartments and the crew’s quarters. The tram from Princes Street stops outside.
- Five decks, from the royal bedrooms to the engine room
- Audio guide in many languages
- Rated 4.9 by more than 3,000 visitors
Bus tour from €21 Edinburgh: City Sightseeing Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour
A loop of the Old and New Towns on an open-top bus, with commentary and the freedom to get off at any stop. Useful on a first day, for saving your legs on the hills, and for the long downhill-then-uphill haul to Holyrood.
- Open-top double-decker
- Stops at the castle, Royal Mile and Holyrood
- Audio commentary in several languages
Boat cruise from €21 Edinburgh: “Firth of Forth” Three Bridges Sightseeing Cruise
A boat trip on the Firth of Forth from South Queensferry, passing beneath the great red rail bridge of 1890 and its two road-bridge neighbours. You make your own way to the pier — about 20 minutes by train from Edinburgh to Dalmeny, then a walk downhill.
- Sail under the UNESCO-listed Forth Bridge
- Views of Inchcolm island and its abbey
- Seals and seabirds on a good day
